The Pure-Rest and Ecobaby Organics Blog

All about Natural and Organics for you and your home!

Quick Update: Organic Cotton Receiving Blankets Closeout Sale! May 3, 2017

We are clearing out our stock on organic cotton receiving blankets and as a result will be selling them for $15 for the double thick and $10 for the single layer. These blankets will also have free contiguous USA shipping. This is only while supplies last though.

Some details about our organic cotton receiving blankets:

  • They were made in India and have a softer, thicker feel.
  • No Azo dyes were used.
  • They were certified organic through SKAL.
  • The dimensions of the blankets are approximately 28×34” after washing.

These organic cotton blankets would be good for newborns and infants, though some individuals have even used these with small pets.  Most of the receiving blankets are a knit stitch, which works well for all seasons. The yellow dog print is a more plush Sherpa. Ideal for less warm weather, though due to being organic cotton, it is still breathable and not too hot. The double thick is slightly heavier than the single layer.
If there are any questions feel free to contact us at . For a quick link to our organic cotton receiving blankets, click here.


Summer Bedding Thoughts: The Differences between our Organic Cotton Blankets June 20, 2016

Summer Bedding Thoughts: The Differences between our Organic Cotton Blankets
With summer here, the thought of the ideal summer blanket comes to mind. A blanket just light and airy enough to fit perfectly with the hot weather without emphasizing how hot the weather actually is.  Summer is different for different locations and different house styles. An ideal blanket at one location, may not be ideal at another. With this in mind, we feel it’s time to explain the differences between our organic blankets. Hopefully this information will allow the opportunity to pick the right organic summer (or other season) blanket for your home.


Organized by lightest weight to heaviest weight, we’ll discuss the differences about each one.


Organic Cotton Large Waffle Weave Blanket
This blanket is the most aerated and lightest weight. It’s great for summer time as a result of this and can also be a good light weight layering blanket. Its weave is playful and slightly plush. This blanket is soft with optimal give due to its wider style weave.


Blog ww
Organic Cotton Waffle Weave Blanket
This blanket also gets good aeration and is light weight, though slightly heavier in weight and less aerated than the large waffle weave blanket. This blanket is soft and also good for summer and spring weather. The weave is homey and simple, and also works nicely as a layering blanket.


blog crepe
Organic Cotton Crepe Weave Blanket
This blanket has a tighter weave and less aeration, but is still light weight. Some also find this blanket can work nicely being used in the patio or sun room in dryer areas. The weave is more sophisticated than the waffle weaves. Like the others, this blanket is also soft, but is also more streamlined in feel. This blanket will work nicely in summer, late spring, and certain fall weather.


blog chen stripe
Organic Cotton Chenille Stripe Blanket

This soft blanket has a tighter weave with some extra aeration due to the stripe stitch. It is medium weight and good for all seasons. With its elegant yet relaxed weave it makes a very appealing bedspread. This blanket is also more plush than our other options.


blog brown chenblog nat chen
Chenille Herringbone (Colorgrown Brown & Undyed Natural)
The organic cotton chenille herringbone blanket has one of the tightest weaves of our blankets. An elegant design with a heavier medium weight, this blanket is ideal for a bedspread. This blanket can be used all season, though it would work especially well in fall and winter in combination with one of our light weight wool comforters. This blanket has minimal aeration and is soft with a slight plush texture. The colorgrown brown is slightly lighter in weight and less thick naturally.


Honorable Mentions:


We also have a twin size organic cotton double layer 8oz flannel blanket and a twin size organic cotton knit blanket. Both have travel size capabilities and are very soft and comfortable. The flannel would be ideal for cooler weather, while the knit would be ideal for warmer weather.


We hope this information on our organic cotton blankets is helpful. Please feel free to post in the comments your ideas for the next blog post!


The Right Organic Pet Bed for your Dog or Cat July 23, 2015

You may be considering an organic cat or dog bed if your pet:

• Has allergies and needs a hypoallergenic pet bed.
• Has chemical sensitivities and needs a pet bed without added chemicals or synthetic materials.
• Shares an earth or eco-friendly lifestyle with you.
• Overheats in the summer on their current dog or cat bed.


Or if you:


• Prefer a pet bed with materials that are naturally mold and mildew resistant.
• Have done research on chemical exposure and pets, and as a result, want to purchase products for your dog or cat which avoid synthetics and chemicals as much as possible.
• Want a dog or cat bed that will last a long time for your pet.
• Want what’s best for your pet.

At Pure-Rest Organics, we understand this, and as a result we offer a large selection of organic dog and cat beds to accommodate your pet. Though an issue which can develop with this large selection, is finding out which pet bed to get for your pet. You want to make sure you pick the right one, so that your pet may enjoy it, and actually sleep on it.

So let us begin.

Some factors to consider for deciding which organic dog or cat bed to get your pet, include your pet’s sleeping position, age, size, weight & body structure. Other factors include fur type and color, behavior, and where your pet normally sleeps. By looking at these various factors and what they mean, we can deduce which pet bed would be most optimal for your pet:


Sleeping Position:
Does your pet sleep curled up or straightened out? Do they sprawl out when they sleep? If your pet sleeps curled up, you would want to consider a round or oval pet bed, if they sleep straightened out, you would want to consider a rectangular pet bed. For sprawled out sleeping, a wider rectangular pet bed should be considered.



Age: Older pets should get pet beds which have a solid rubber inner, vs. shredded rubber inner, in order to ensure they can easily get onto the pet bed.


Size, Weight, & Body Structure:
If your pet is heavier or more muscular in body structure, then a thicker pet bed would be better (a 3” over a 2” thick for example). While slimmer or less muscular pets would still be well supported with a thinner pet bed (2” over 3”). Depending on the size of your pet, you will want to get a pet bed which works for that size. Measure your pet from the base of its tail to its head in order to figure out the minimum length you would want the pet bed to be. Measure your pet across its shoulders, and then add about 2 to 3” to figure out the minimum width for the pet bed.


Fur Type & Color:
Pets with longer fur tend to do better with organic cotton twill and chenille while pets with shorter fur work well with all types of organic cotton fabric. Depending on the color of your pet’s fur, you may want to consider a neutral or similar color in order to reduce the showing of loose fur in between washings of the organic cotton outer or pad.


Certain behaviors tend to result in certain pet beds working better for your pet. With cats that like to “knead” with their paws, the pet haven is the most optimal pet bed choice. With dogs that tend to be more aggressive, a twill organic cotton outer (regardless of pet bed choice) tends to work well. More active or playful pets may find the shredded rubber pet beds more to their liking, while calmer pets may find the solid rubber core pet beds more appeasing.


Normal Sleeping Location:
Depending on where you pet likes to sleep, you may want to ensure the pet bed works for that location and fits by size and shape there. Pets which prefer sleeping in a kennel or enclosed secure area, may desire an organic cotton pet pad vs. an organic pet bed. This also may apply for if this is going to be used in the car, as the pet pad would be lower maintenance and more adaptable to the shape of a car (for example if placed on the seat of the car).


If your pet prefers to sleep in a location with a solid surface below it (like wood), then you would want to consider a thicker pet bed (3” thick, shredded rubber, pet haven). Though if your pet prefers to sleep in a location with a plusher surface (like carpeting), a thinner pet bed will work fine. Some pets and owners, prefer for their pet to sleep in bed with them. In this case an organic cotton pet pad, organic cotton baby, toddler, or throw blanket, or a thinner solid rubber pet bed would most likely work better. So as not to add weight or taking up of space for owners sharing the bed with their pet.

We hope this information has given you some guidance on which organic pet bed would be ideal for your pet. If you feel you still can’t decide, or just want to see our organic & natural pet bed materials in person, order one of our free organic pet sampler kits! Please let us know in the comments section or contact us directly if you have any questions, or need any assistance in regards to this.

Anecdotal & Personal Research
Previous research and background knowledge


Don’t forget to post in the comments your ideas for the next blog post!


What is Kapok? April 2, 2015

          Kapok are the silky fibers which come from the pods (fruit) of the kapok tree. The silky fibers (kapok) itself is actually considered to be the “meat” of the fruit, holding the seeds inside for transporting when the pods open. These fibers are lightweight and when the pods from the kapok tree open, the kapok floats out to land wherever it may. Kapok is similar in feel to cotton only silkier, hence its nickname, “Silk-Cotton”. The scientific name for the kapok tree, which the kapok comes from, is ceiba pentandra.

Here is a picture of kapok: Kapok on tree(Copyright to Wikipedia where this picture was sourced from.)

          Kapok has many naturally occurring beneficial properties including being extremely lightweight, naturally insulating/temperature regulating (due to 80-90% fiber hollowness), anti-bacterial, water repellent, and anti-mite (a mite deterrent). Kapok is also incredibly buoyant due to its natural water repellent nature.

          Kapok trees grow in rainforest areas and are some of the tallest trees in the rainforest (about 150 feet or more). Kapok trees live for about 60 years. Kapok is harvested by picking the pods/fruit from the kapok tree before they open and then sun drying the pods so they open on their own and the kapok can be scooped out.

          Kapok is used for a filling in various products including pillows, toppers, mattresses, sleeping bags, and at one time it was used for filling life preservers. We use kapok as a fill for our kapok Pillows. Kapok gives a very soft plush feel to anything it fills because of its light weight and buoyancy. It also does not overheat like synthetics can. When filled in a non-zip item, kapok filled bedding can have the possibility of being able to be machine washed and dried.

Here is a picture of our Kapok Pillow:
(Copyright to PureRest Organics where this picture was sourced from.)

          Using kapok for filling is an ecological/environmental friendly choice because it helps to give purpose to the Kapok trees in a way that is non-harmful and maintains preservation of the trees (which often otherwise would be cut down for lumber).

          Due to the kapok tree’s large size and the sturdy nature of the kapok tree it is incredibly low maintenance to no maintenance in regards to care for the tree itself or for preparation of harvesting Kapok. This makes Kapok a natural fiber which does not need pesticides, herbicides, chemical fertilizers, or other treatments applied to it.

          I hope this has explained kapok thoroughly. Please let me know if you have any inquiries or further questions about kapok or kapok trees. Lastly, please feel free to post in the comments your ideas for the next blog post!

Sources for the information provided: (for the picture)

If interested in Kapok Pillows for purchase, here is a link to our Kapok Pillows:


Naturally Wrinkle Free Sheets and Clothes! January 26, 2015

When shopping around for sheets, a common feature conventional sheets have is that a lot of them are “permanent press”, “easy care”, or “wrinkle free”. This essentially means that they will not wrinkle no matter the environment or conditions they are under. Quite a few people prefer not to purchase such sheets or clothing with these features due to the fact that most of the time, formaldehyde or resins made with formaldehyde is what is applied to the sheets or clothing to give it this feature. Still, the having sheets or clothing without wrinkles is something everyone desires. There are quite a few preventive measures one can take to ensure wrinkle free sheets and clothing. Let’s get into some things you can do to naturally prevent wrinkles on your clothes and sheets.


#1) Fill your machine only half way with clothes. Overfilling the machine not only stresses out your washer and dryer, but also prevents clothes from getting as much space to move around as they should. If the machine is only half filled, the clothes will have enough space to move around and dry wrinkle free.


#2) Pull clothes while still warm out of the dryer. You don’t want to leave clothes in the dryer as it can get wrinkly inside as it cools. Pulling the clothes while warm out of the dryer and either putting them away immediately or laying it out flat to put away lessens the clothes from getting wrinkles as they cool.


#3) Wash and dry extra-large or heavy items by themselves. This includes sheet sets. The weight of these items when drying can cause smaller items to not get enough movement which can cause the smaller items to wrinkle. Washing these big and heavy items by themselves allows them to get enough movement and drying out fully which lessens wrinkles.


#4) Add vinegar to the softening compartment of your washer for the final cycle. Vinegar naturally softens clothes, this softening makes clothes more malleable as it dries allowing it better chances of drying without wrinkles once put in the dryer.


#5) Don’t let the clothes sit in the washer. This can cause it to wrinkle up and be harder for the wrinkles to be removed in the dryer.


I hope this has aided with providing you a few methods for natural wrinkle prevention. Let me know if you want to know anything further or additional about this. Lastly, don’t forget to post in the comments your ideas for the next blog post.


Sources for information provided:


To Whiten or not! Information on Fabric Whiteners! July 16, 2014

There a quite a few ways to whiten a fabric, and I would like to discuss a couple of them; specifically chlorine bleach and hydrogen peroxide. They are the most common methods and often how they are made and how their usage works is unknown to many.


Bleach, otherwise known as Sodium Hypochlorite, is made by combining sodium hydroxide (lye) with gaseous or liquid chlorine and then diluting this solution with water.


It whitens through the chlorine, which breaks down the natural color or pigmentation of the fabric (this also breaks down stains and such). Chlorine, which can be quite dangerous on its own and needs the lye to hold onto to keep it stable, hence the purpose of the lye and not just straight chlorine. This method of whitening, will produce the whitest white one can get for a fabric and is much cheaper for whitening than other methods. This method is also more abrasive and can affect the life of the fabric.


Bleach sound pretty simple, right? Well, Hydrogen Peroxide… not so much. This helps to get an idea of probably why the Bleach method is cheaper and more commercially available for whitening of fabrics.


Hydrogen Peroxide is basically commercially made by first using palladium to cause 2-alkyl anthraquinone and two hydrogen molecules to react and combine creating 2-alkyl anthrahydroquinone (the palladium is just used to cause the reaction and is not in the 2-alkyl anthrahydroquinone). Two oxygen molecules are then added to the 2-alkyl anthrahydroquinone. Now you basically have 2-alkyl anthraquinone and hydrogen peroxide combined into one compound because the added hydrogen and oxygen create hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide is extracted from the compound using distillation, which separates the 2-alkyl anthraquinone from the hydrogen peroxide. The 2-alkyl anthraquinone is only used to get the hydrogen peroxide to combine and form properly and is not in the end product of hydrogen peroxide, it is necessary because attempting to combine the two hydrogen atoms and oxygen atoms directly can often times result in the wrong compound being formed.


Hydrogen Peroxide whitens through oxygenation from the oxygen atoms in the hydrogen peroxide that easily separate from it and bonds onto the pigment, removing it from the material. Fabrics colored using this method produce a less strong white, though this whitening method is less abrasive on the fabric itself.


Overall, I hope this has explained some of the basics with common fabric whiteners! Let me know if you want to know anything further or additional about them! Lastly, don’t forget to post in the comments your ideas for the next blog post!

Sources for information provided:—PDF



They’re both the same! Aren’t they? Natural vs. Synthetic or Man-Made products March 21, 2014

There are many compounds, minerals, materials, foods, and general “things” which can have the same name and be pretty much the same, except one is man-made or synthetic and the other is natural. Now due to what one may have read or been told, one may be led to believe that every single thing about this item is the exact same, this isn’t always true.


In fact, a lot of the time, they can actually be different in some manner.


Thinking about this, I decided I would pick out 4 things which have man-made or synthetic versions and natural versions and explain some of these differences. Hopefully, this will inspire you to look into items you have which could have another version and explore to see if there are differences among those items when natural or man-made/synthetic.


Alas, let us begin.


Item 1) Lye: Lye is a common ingredient used in the soap making process for saponification. It is a base and can be the natural version (potassium hydroxide) or the man-made version (sodium hydroxide). The natural version (Potassium Hydroxide) would be from wood ash while the man-made version (sodium hydroxide) would be industrially produced. The natural version will normally result in a softer or a liquid soap while the man-made will result in a hard soap. If you add quite a  bit of salt  during the soap making process you can also possibly turn the naturally occurring version into a hard soap, though one needs to use a more solid fat with it like animal fat. The naturally occurring version also uses less water and could be argued as more concentrated or effective in regards to how the soap works when using the naturally occurring lye for making.


Item 2) Sweeteners: Sweeteners are used to make something taste sweet, and there are naturally occurring types and synthetic types.  Naturally occurring types include cane sugar and honey while synthetic types include Aspartame and Saccharin. What normally results in the usage of these synthetic types over the naturally occurring types, is the concerns of calorie consumption or the economic cost as the synthetics tend to be cheaper.


Cane sugar is sugar that is obtained from the sugar cane, normally less processed than white granulated sugar which results in a slight natural color and courser grain. Honey is a sweetener obtained from beehives and depending where you get it can have different levels of processing. While sweet, it is liquid and has other minerals and proteins in it. In addition, depending on what plants the bees are going to that they are using to make the honey, the honey can have differing levels of sweetness and taste. Aspartame is made by fermenting and synthesizing* the amino L-phenylalanine with L-aspartic acid and methanol (I’ve posted links about these below with my other sources though to explain the individual ingredients would need another post). Saccharin is made through first converting phthalic anhydride into anthranilic acid. The Anthranilic acid is then synthesized with nitrous acid, sulfur dioxide, chlorine, and ammonia to create Saccharin.


The naturally occurring types of sweeteners like honey and cane sugar tend to have a less sweet taste in similar quantities to the synthetics, but are better absorbed by the body and digested. With the synthetics like Saccharin and Aspartame, weight gain is actually able to occur due to it resulting in making the body think it needs to store extra calories.


Item 3) Vitamin D: Vitamin D is a vitamin which helps to regulate other minerals in the body and aid the immune system. The naturally occurring type is Vitamin D3 while the synthetic type is Vitamin D2. Vitamin D3 occurs naturally in Fatty fish and through exposure to sunlight. With exposure to sunlight, please note that you need the natural oils on your skin to be present in order to actually absorb the Vitamin D3, washing oneself on a bi-daily or daily basis with harsh or conventional soaps strips your body of these oils which prevents the absorption of vitamin D3 through exposure to sunlight.  In addition, excessive use of sunscreens can also prevent Vitamin D3 from being absorbed when getting it from exposure to sunlight. Vitamin D2 is synthetic and not at all necessary for your body, when talking about vitamin D levels, in fact, even though both are shown the Vitamin D3 is the preferred to have. Vitamin D2 is made by radiating ergosteral from the mold ergot. Vitamin D2 is not as potent as vitamin D3.


Item 4) Fleece: When talking about fleece, I am not talking about the sheep’s fleece, but actually am talking about the fleece common in clothing and blankets. Most of these are synthetically made from polyester, which as I have said before in a previous post, is terephthalic acid (a petroleum base) mixed with anti-freeze. Though there are some which are made from Cotton, which would be natural. Polyester is considered the warmer fabric, though due to polyester’s not so breathable nature, being a plastic and all, it tends to also result in a lot of overheating and some sweating which for many is a huge nuisance with the fabric and a major deterrent. Polyester also tends just not to feel as nice as cotton does even if it does try. As I personally notice, the polyester tends to “catch” onto the skin more.


Cotton fleece, would be more breathable and as a result not as warm, which may require an additional layer of something like wool in colder or wet weather or silk in more windy weather. Cotton fleece would be softer though and would not cause overheating while still adding a nice warmer layer. Polyester fleece though is cheaper and more easily accessible, while cotton would be harder to find. One could also get a fleece item made from wool which would be if minimally processed, liquid resistant and temperature regulating, but unless it is a higher quality organic wool fleece or something along those lines, it could affect sensitive skin and not be as soft.


Anyways, I hope this information has helped with seeing some of the differences and making one more aware that there can be differences among various items which are supposed to be the same, depending on whether they are the synthetic or natural versions.
Don’t forget to post in the comments your ideas for the next blog post!

Sources for information provided:

*Synthesis definition per oxford dictionary: The combination of components or elements to form a connected whole.